If you're looking to give your first-gen RD1 a bit more ground clearance, picking out the right 1999 honda crv lift kit is basically the first step in turning that reliable daily into a capable weekend warrior. There's something about these older CR-Vs that just looks right when they're sitting a couple of inches higher. Maybe it's the boxy body style or the fact that they've got that iconic spare tire on the back, but a lift really transforms them from "grocery getter" to "battle wagon."
I've seen a ton of people go back and forth on whether lifting a 25-year-old Honda is actually worth it. The short answer? Yeah, it totally is—as long as you know what you're getting into. These cars were built on a modified Civic platform, so they're surprisingly tough, but they weren't exactly meant to be rock crawlers from the factory. Adding a lift kit changes the geometry of how everything sits, and that's what we're going to dig into here.
Why Even Consider a Lift?
Most people start looking for a 1999 honda crv lift kit because they want to fit bigger tires. Let's be real, the stock wheels on these things look like they belong on a golf cart. When you add a 1.5-inch or 2-inch lift, you suddenly have the room to run 215/75R15s or even 235s if you're willing to do a little trimming in the wheel wells.
Beyond the looks, that extra couple of inches of clearance is a lifesaver if you spend any time on dirt roads or camping trails. You're not going to be doing any heavy-duty rock crawling—let's not get ahead of ourselves—but you'll stop scraping your oil pan on every single rutted-out path. Plus, the view from the driver's seat just feels better when you aren't staring at everyone's bumper.
Choosing the Right Type of Kit
When you start shopping, you'll notice two main ways to go about this. You've got your basic spacer kits and then you've got full suspension replacements.
Spacer Kits (The Budget Friendly Route)
Spacer kits are probably the most popular choice for the RD1 chassis. These are usually made of billet aluminum or high-density polyurethane and they sit right on top of your factory strut assembly. They're great because they're affordable and they don't mess with your spring rate, so the ride stays mostly "Honda-smooth."
The thing to watch out for with spacers is that they don't actually give you more suspension travel; they just move the starting point of the suspension lower. If you're just doing this for the aesthetic and some light trail work, a 1.5-inch or 2-inch spacer kit is usually the "sweet spot" where you don't break everything else on the car.
Lifted Springs and Coilovers
If your factory struts are already leaking and tired—which, let's be honest, on a 1999 they probably are—you might want to skip the spacers and go for lifted springs. Companies like Old Man Emu make springs specifically for the CR-V that provide about an inch or so of lift while being much stiffer than stock. This helps a lot if you carry a lot of gear or have a heavy hitch-mounted rack on the back.
The Important Extras People Forget
Here's where a lot of people mess up. You can't just throw a 1999 honda crv lift kit on and call it a day. Since these cars have independent rear suspension, lifting them causes some weird geometry issues.
Rear Trailing Arm Spacers are almost mandatory if you go over 1.5 inches. Without them, your rear wheels will actually move forward in the wheel arch toward the rear doors. It looks goofy, and it makes it way harder to fit bigger tires because they'll rub on the front side of the fender well.
You also need to think about camber kits. Lifting the car pulls the tops of the tires inward (positive camber). If you don't fix this with adjustable upper control arms in the front and adjustable arms in the rear, you're going to chew through your tires in about three months. Don't skip the alignment after the install; your wallet will thank you later.
Dealing With the "Vibration" Issues
One thing you'll hear a lot in the CR-V community is the "lift vibration." When you raise the body, you're increasing the angle at which the CV axles have to operate. On a 1999 model, those axles have likely been sitting at the same angle for decades. When you suddenly force them to work at a steeper angle, they can get unhappy real quick.
If you start feeling a shake when you're accelerating after installing your lift, it's usually the inner CV joints protesting. Some guys get around this by installing "subframe drop spacers," which lowers the engine and transmission slightly to flatten out those axle angles. It's a bit more work, but it's the "right" way to do a taller lift if you want the car to last.
Installation Tips for the DIYer
If you're planning on installing the 1999 honda crv lift kit yourself in the driveway, get a good can of penetrating oil and start soaking every bolt a week in advance. These cars are old, and the rear lower shock bolts are notorious for seizing inside the bushing. If that happens, you're looking at a much bigger job involving a Sawzall and new bushings.
You'll also need a decent set of spring compressors if you're doing the "sandwich" style spacers that go between the top hat and the spring, though most modern spacers just bolt onto the top of the entire strut assembly, which is way easier. Just be careful—strut springs under tension are essentially giant loaded cannons.
Maintenance First, Mods Second
Before you drop money on a lift, take a good look at your bushings. If your compliance bushings or your rear trailing arm bushings are cracked and rotting, a lift is only going to make the car handle like a bowl of Jell-O. It's a lot smarter to refresh the rubber components first so you have a solid foundation for the new height.
Also, check your cooling system. These B20 engines are legendary, but they don't like to overheat. If you're adding bigger tires and more wind resistance with a lift, the engine has to work a little harder. Make sure your radiator and hoses are up to the task before you head out into the woods.
Is the Ride Quality Any Good?
Surprisingly, a lifted 1999 CR-V still drives pretty much like a CR-V. You'll feel a bit more body roll in the corners because your center of gravity is higher, but it's not like driving a lifted truck with a solid front axle. It still feels nimble and easy to park.
The biggest change in "feel" usually comes from the tires. If you swap the street tires for some aggressive All-Terrains, you're going to hear more road noise. To me, that's just part of the charm. It makes the car feel more like a tool and less like a commuter.
Wrapping It Up
At the end of the day, installing a 1999 honda crv lift kit is one of the best bangs for your buck if you want to personalize your RD1. It gives the car a much more aggressive stance and actually adds some utility if you like exploring the outdoors. Just remember to do it right—get the trailing arm spacers, fix your camber, and maybe keep an eye on those CV axles.
These old Hondas were built to last, and with a little extra height, there's no reason your '99 can't keep turning heads for another hundred thousand miles. Plus, you get to keep that cool folding picnic table in the back—now you just have a better view when you're sitting at it.